Nestled in the western mountains of Asturias, far from bustling cities, lies the village of Santalla. Here, time follows its own rules. A walk along its cobbled streets past slate-roofed houses is more than just a tour—it’s a true journey into the past of the Los Oscos region, an area that carefully preserves centuries-old artisan traditions. Surrounded by forests and meadows, the landscapes inspire tranquility and discovery, making this corner of Spain perfect for those seeking authenticity and a deep connection with nature.
Living history in the heart of Green Spain
As soon as you arrive in Santalla, you sense that every detail matters and each sculpture tells its own story. Looms operate just as they did in the 18th century, while skilled craftsmen shape red-hot iron with practiced hands. The entire atmosphere is steeped in respect for those who defined this place—the blacksmiths, or “ferreiros,” whose legacy can be felt everywhere. The sound of hammer on anvil and the steady rhythm of the looms combine to create a unique melody, where past and present blend in perfect harmony.
Santalla, now one of the symbols of the Oscos-Eo Biosphere Reserve, offers visitors much more than ordinary tourism. It’s a sensorial and emotional immersion into the very heart of Asturian culture, where traditional crafts, local hospitality, and a deep respect for the land come together to create unforgettable memories.
An open-air art gallery
A stroll through the village feels like visiting an open-air museum. One of the most remarkable spots is the ‘Telar de Irene’, a small workshop where wool, linen, and silk are still woven using 18th-century techniques. These creations are true works of art, a reminder of how important weaving once was for the Los Oscos economy.
However, Santalla’s true hallmark has always been its connection to iron. At one time, the settlement boasted more than a hundred working forges. Today, this legacy lives on in the many sculptures displayed across streets and squares. Created during the blacksmiths’ gatherings that have been held since the early 21st century, these works pay tribute to a centuries-old tradition. Every piece has its own meaning, but they all share a common theme: community unity and respect for heritage. Even the municipal building’s railings, forged by ferreiros, are decorated with plant motifs symbolizing joy and a love of life.
Art Trail and Natural Treasures
Among the most iconic works are ‘El Espíritu del Herrero’ (‘The Spirit of the Blacksmith’), made from wrought iron and slate. Nearby stands the ‘Asturian Warrior’, dedicated to ethnographer Pepe el Ferreiro, and the sculpture ‘The Nail’, created in memory of the region’s last traditional blacksmith. Each one tells its own story, connecting the past and present.
These and other art installations are part of the “La Ruta con Arte” route—a circular trail of 15 kilometers, with a shorter 5-kilometer option. The trail starts right in the village and is perfect for family outings, including those with children and pets. No special training is needed, and parking in the village is free. Local restaurants and rural hotels add to the charm, making this an excellent base for exploring one of the most authentic and least-known corners of northern Spain.
The legacy of iron and women’s work
The sculpture display continues on Sargadelos Square, where a bust of the Marqués de Sargadelos is installed. This native of Santa Eulalia was a pioneer of the metallurgical and ceramics industry in the 18th century. Nearby you’ll find the sculpture “La Servanda,” created in 2023, which pays tribute to rural women and spinners who for generations laid the foundation of life in Los Oscos.
Beyond these man-made wonders, the village is surrounded by natural beauty. The A Seimeira waterfall and the “Forcón de los Ríos” trail are just a couple of examples of paths winding through chestnut and oak groves. Here, surrounded by the sounds of the blacksmith’s hammer and the weaving loom, you realize that time isn’t wasted in Santa Eulalia—it’s forged, woven, and carefully preserved for future generations. For complete immersion, visit Mazonovo just five kilometers away, where an 18th-century forge with its original hydraulic hammer is still in operation.
