Exploring Green Spain
Northern Spain, often referred to as ‘Green Spain,’ harbors countless corners untouched by mass tourism. One such place is the tiny village of Lamiña, hidden within the municipality of Ruente. It is part of the vast Saja-Besaya Natural Park, which has rightfully earned its status as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Here, time moves differently. Stone houses overgrown with moss, quiet streets where greeting every passerby is still the norm, all create the feeling that you’ve stepped into the past. The air is filled with tranquility and the scent of damp earth. This is where a walking route begins, promising to be a real discovery even for seasoned travelers. It’s not just a hike, but an opportunity to experience the authentic life of a region where people and nature still exist in harmony.
On the Trail of Forest Spirits
The trail begins subtly, drawing you deep into a beech forest. A well-marked path winds along the chatty Cambillas River, whose whisper accompanies you all the way. At first, you walk across open meadows where cows graze, then plunge into a dense woodland scented with mushrooms and damp leaves. Sunbeams barely pierce the thick canopy of ancient trees, creating a beautiful interplay of light and shadow on the ground. The route can also start from the nearby village of Barsenillas, just a couple of kilometers away. In that case, the path runs parallel to the stream, crossing it over picturesque bridges—sometimes natural ones formed by fallen trunks. The scenery changes constantly: oak groves give way to chestnut woods, then to eucalyptus plantations. In spring, everything is lush and green, and in autumn, the forest turns into a golden palace you can’t take your eyes off. Robins and chaffinches dart through the branches, and if you’re lucky, you might spot a roe deer or even a wild boar at dawn.
Ursula’s Treasure
Gradually, the sound of water grows louder, turning into a distinct roar. This is a sign that the destination is near. The Lamina waterfalls, sometimes called Ursula’s cascades by locals, appear suddenly, as if rising from the ground. Instead of a single powerful stream, there’s a whole series of small rivulets tumbling down rocks covered in emerald moss. The water has carved its way through the stone, creating whimsical pools and ledges. Lush greenery is everywhere, blending with the rocks and water, painting a scene of untouched beauty. The place feels magical and secluded, as if straight out of ancient Celtic legends. You want to sit on a rock and just listen to the music of falling water, watching it shimmer in the sunlight. It’s the perfect spot for a small picnic and a rest before heading back—a place of power where you can fully recharge and forget the bustle of the city.
Practical tips and nearby attractions
The entire walk, round trip, covers about seven to eight kilometers and takes no more than three to four hours at a leisurely pace. The elevation gain is only around one hundred meters, making this hike accessible for people of any fitness level—even young children, who will be delighted by the fairytale forest. The easiest way to reach Lamiña is by car via the A-8 highway to the exit for Cabezón de la Sal, then continuing on the CA-180 road toward Reinosa. Signs for Ruente and Lamiña will keep you on track. After the hike, it’s worth taking some time to explore the surrounding area. Nearby, you’ll find the Fuentona de Ruente, a natural spring with crystal-clear water, as well as the hermitage of San Fructuoso, a medieval remnant of an ancient Visigothic monastery that gave rise to the settlement. These attractions are a perfect way to round out a day spent in one of Cantabria’s most authentic and tranquil corners.
