In the far south of Spain, where the Atlantic Ocean meets the lands of Andalusia, lies a small town whose name is steeped in salt and centuries-old traditions. Zahara de los Atunes, the jewel of the Costa de la Luz coast in the province of Cádiz, has long since ceased to be just a dot on the map. Today, it is a retreat for those seeking refuge from the bustle of city life, and September—with its gentle sun and dwindling flow of tourists—reveals the true character of this enclave. When the crowds of holidaymakers disperse, the narrow streets regain the steady rhythm of local life, and on the endless beaches, one may encounter not only surfers chasing the waves, but also celebrities in search of solitude.
A star-studded escape to the “German Hill”
Among the admirers of this Andalusian paradise is Dani Martín, one of the leading figures in the Spanish pop-rock scene. The former frontman of El Canto del Loco has found here not just a vacation spot, but a true second home. He chose the exclusive area known as “colina de los Alemanes” or “German Hill.” From this elevated location, there is a breathtaking panoramic view of the 1.5-kilometer-long Bunker Beach, nestled between the Gracia and La Plata capes. It is here, in his residence, that the musician recharges after intense tours and draws inspiration, far from the intrusive attention and hectic pace of Madrid. Locals have already grown accustomed to seeing him strolling along the shore or enjoying the freshest seafood at one of the beachfront chiringuitos, where he is just another guest like everyone else, free from celebrity status and bustle.
The Legacy of Tuna and Dukes
But Zahara is more than just beaches and celebrities. Its soul and history are inseparably linked to tuna, as even the name suggests (“de los Atunes” — “tuna”). For centuries, the ancient and spectacular tradition of almadraba—an elaborate system of nets for catching bluefin tuna migrating to spawn through the Strait of Gibraltar—thrived here. Introduced by the Phoenicians and perfected by the Arabs, this practice shaped the economy and culture of the entire region. The old palace of the Dukes of Medina Sidonia, standing right by the sea, bears witness to the town’s former glory. The once-powerful aristocrats personally oversaw the tuna fishing and processing operations from here, turning Zahara into a major economic hub. Today, the palace ruins and old fishermen’s quarters tell stories of a time when the town’s very existence depended on the ocean’s whims and the tuna migration.
Gastronomy, nature, and Roman ruins
In recent decades, Zahara de los Atunes has transformed from a humble fishing village into a prestigious resort, all while retaining its authentic charm. Gastronomy here is an art form, with red tuna taking center stage. Local restaurants prepare it in hundreds of ways, from the traditional grilled morrillo to refined tartare and sashimi, proving that the local tuna is among the best in the world. But a holiday in Zahara isn’t limited to food and golden sandy beaches. Its strategic location between the vibrant Barbate and the wind capital of the world, Tarifa, makes it an ideal starting point for exploring the region. Just a few kilometers away lie the impressive ruins of the ancient Roman city of Baelo Claudia, with its temples and amphitheater set right on the ocean shore. This unique combination of unspoiled nature, rich history, and modern tourist infrastructure is what makes Zahara a place you’ll want to return to again and again.
