A Portal to the Past
In the heart of Cantabria, nestled between the bustling towns of Torrelavega and Los Corrales de Buelna, lies a village where time seems to have stood still. Along the banks of the Besaya River, two unique urban ensembles showcase the splendor of traditional Cantabrian architecture. The main street welcomes visitors with a majestic arched gateway connecting two ancient towers. Beyond it unfolds a perspective of meticulously restored 17th and 18th-century manor houses, their facades adorned with carved balconies overflowing with flowers. This is the perfect destination for a September getaway, blending monumental heritage, vibrant traditions, and picturesque nature.
The magic of Cartes, designated a site of cultural interest since 1985, gradually unfolds as you walk along its main thoroughfare. The cityscape appears frozen in a distant past. Stone arches, ancestral mansions, and defensive structures silently tell of bygone eras, their spirit felt in every corner. Wandering the cobbled streets, you are transported centuries back, where every facade and heraldic crest preserves the memory of noble families who shaped the destiny of this villa.
Living heritage and cultural legacy
One of the key events of the month is the pilgrimage in honor of Saint Cyprian, held annually on September 16. This festival, recognized as a regionally significant tourist event, brings together hundreds of pilgrims. Armed with hazel staffs and shod in traditional wooden shoes known as “albarcas,” they make their way along trails to the chapel in the Prado meadow. On the eve of the event, the town of Cartes itself becomes the epicenter of this deeply rooted mountain celebration. It is this inseparable link between heritage and tradition that gives the town its unique character.
The historic center of Cartes developed around the Camino Real, an ancient route that connected the Castilian plateau with the coast of Cantabria. Along a stretch of just 500 meters, visitors can see a whole collection of noble houses from the 15th to 18th centuries, many of which are adorned with coats of arms that recall the influence of aristocratic families of the time. Among the most iconic symbols is the Torreón de Cartes, built by the Manrique family in the 15th century. This fortified structure, featuring two arches that still serve as the main entrance to the town’s central street, is one of the most photographed landmarks in Cartes and a vivid example of its architectural heritage.
In addition to its historic buildings, the area has preserved other unique sites. Among them are an 18th-century stone bridge, an eight-mill route included in the General Register of Cultural Heritage of Cantabria since 2003, and the Santa María de Yermo church—a true Romanesque gem protected by the state since 1930. Cartes has also left its mark in literature. Benito Pérez Galdós himself found inspiration here, creating “Socartes” for his novel “Marianela.” Today, a themed bench on one of the streets, engraved with quotes from the Canarian writer, serves as a reminder of this literary connection.
From the Middle Ages to records and gastronomy
During the 2023 Christmas season, the village made headlines across Europe by erecting the continent’s tallest Christmas tree. The structure, 65 meters high, weighing 40 tons of metal and adorned with 24,000 LED lights, became a symbol of modernity in striking contrast to its medieval heritage. This impressive installation attracted thousands of visitors and put the village on the map of Europe’s most extraordinary Christmas celebrations.
Its advantageous location, just half an hour from Santander and close to Torrelavega, makes it an ideal starting point for exploring other iconic spots in Cantabria. From here, you can easily reach Cabárceno Nature Park, the Altamira Caves, or Saja-Besaya Natural Park. In addition to its historical wealth, the village invites you to enjoy the local cuisine. Restaurants serve hearty mountain stew “cocido montañés,” cheesecake “quesadas,” sponge cakes “sobaos,” and grilled meats. Getting here from Santander is simple: just drive about 30 kilometers on the A-67 motorway towards Torrelavega. This makes Cartes an excellent option for a day trip or weekend getaway. This destination, seamlessly blending heritage, tradition, and authentic flavors, is perfect for those seeking the true essence of Cantabria.
