At the foot of the Sierra de Leire, where mountain peaks fade into turquoise waters, lies the village of Yesa—frozen in time. Its stone silhouette, mirrored in the reservoir that shares its name, looks like a closely guarded secret of northern Spain. Here, history is woven together with nature, and autumn sunlight turns every corner into a vibrant painting.
Yesa, home to just about three hundred residents, sits atop a rocky ridge, preserving its medieval layout and the distinct charm of Pyrenean villages. From the upper streets, sweeping views unfold of the reservoir and the mountains—so breathtaking, it’s hard to believe they’re real. The waterscape shifts with the seasons, but in autumn the surroundings reach their peak beauty, glowing with golden and crimson hues.
The reservoir, spanning over two thousand hectares and stretching ten kilometers, partially extends into Zaragoza province. It was created in the mid-20th century to tame the waters of the Aragón River. Over time, locals have proudly dubbed it the “Pyrenean Sea,” and it has become a popular spot for relaxation and contemplation. Hikers, kayakers, and paddle boarders alike find unmatched conditions here.
Just a few kilometers from the village lies the San Salvador de Leyre Monastery, considered the oldest monastery in Navarra and a key landmark on the Aragonese section of the Camino de Santiago. Founded in the 11th century, it impresses with its Romanesque architecture and historical significance, standing as one of the most important monumental complexes in the north of the country. From the monastery’s viewpoint, visitors can admire sweeping views of the reservoir, valleys, and forests—creating one of the region’s most iconic panoramas.
Yesa cherishes many other traces of its past. Among them are the Church of San Esteban and the Puente de los Roncaleses, linked to legendary battles of the Reconquista; six of its original seven arches still stand. Today, the village’s cobblestone streets invite visitors to wander at a leisurely pace, discovering picturesque corners and soaking in the tranquil rhythm of rural life. As evening falls, the calm—broken only by the ringing of bells and the whisper of the wind—reminds you that time here in Yesa moves at its own pace.
For those who wish to stay longer, the Leyre Monastery guesthouse welcomes visitors, as do local establishments like Bar-Hostal Arangoiti or La Taberna de Yesa. Here you can sample traditional dishes such as “cordero al chilindrón” (lamb stew) or shepherd’s crumbs “migas.” It’s the perfect way to round off a trip that artfully combines gastronomy, cultural heritage, and unspoiled nature.
To get here from Zaragoza, the quickest route is via the AP-68 and AP-15 highways, then onto the A-21 and NA-2420, which leads straight to the heart of the village. In just a couple of hours, you can trade the hustle and bustle of the city for one of Navarra’s most peaceful and picturesque landscapes, where stone and silence captivate everyone who discovers this place in autumn.
