In August 2024, a massive wildfire broke out in the northern part of León province, destroying forests around Portilla de la Reina and effectively cutting the village off from the outside world. The fire damaged a fiber-optic cable that provided internet and telephone services, sending life in this corner of the Picos de Europa back decades.
For two months, residents have faced constant communication outages. The temporary fix—a gasoline generator powering an antenna—has proven unreliable: fuel runs out quickly, and getting it up into the mountains is becoming harder as winter approaches. Once it snows, reaching the equipment is nearly impossible. As a result, people are left unable to make phone calls, use the internet, or even pay by card.
Isolation and anxiety: life in the village
At the local bar, Tres Provincias, people discuss not only the latest news but also their own daily struggles. The owner, like the rest of the villagers, cannot accept card payments, and connections to the outside world often disappear for days at a time. This hits elderly residents especially hard, as they’re left alone with no way to call for help. Farmers heading out with their sheep into the mountains risk being unreachable for hours on end.
Local entrepreneurs are losing customers: tourists can’t book accommodations or pay for services, and constant power and network outages make it nearly impossible to work. Residents admit they feel forgotten and abandoned, as their problems go unresolved for months. Many are convinced that if the situation doesn’t change, the village will continue to lose its population.
Authorities and operators: promises versus reality
The local elder notes that two months after the fire, there is still no lasting solution. Authorities have promised to restore the infrastructure, but progress is slow, and the challenging terrain and weather only make things worse. The telecom operator claims to have laid 10 kilometers of new cable, but says full restoration will require replacing dozens of poles and carrying out additional work.
Residents recall that similar isolation has happened during heavy snowfalls in past years, when they had to travel to neighboring villages just to get a signal. Now, even though they pay the same taxes as city dwellers, they are forced to put up with constant outages and a lack of basic conveniences.
Ordinary daily life under isolation
The streets of Portilla de la Reina are silent, broken only by the tinkling of sheep bells and the sound of the mountain wind. Elderly residents spend their evenings by the stove, reading newspapers or trying to catch a signal to watch the news on a tablet. Young people and families are increasingly considering moving away, as without connectivity and government support, the village’s future looks uncertain.
For now, residents hope that at least a minimal level of communication can be restored before true winter sets in. But with each passing day, their faith in change weakens, and the sense of abandonment grows stronger.
