In the heart of Spain’s northeastern region, where the land rises to meet the sky, lies one of the most breathtaking landmarks of this part of the country. This is not just a building, but an entire complex clinging to a sheer cliff more than 1,200 meters above sea level. Its silhouette, sharply outlined against the sky, gives the illusion of soaring above an abyss of stone and mist. Few travelers realize that behind its tranquil appearance is a thousand-year chronicle filled with wars, spiritual quests, and rebirths from the ashes.
From military citadel to a hermit sanctuary
Originally, this site was home to the impregnable fortress of Sa Raganyada, which for centuries served as a strategic lookout point. The first written mention dates back to the 11th century, when the Count of Besalú bequeathed the citadel to his son. Over time, this defensive stronghold was transformed into a place of spiritual retreat. By the 14th century, hermits found refuge here, and a century later, Sunday Mass became a regular occurrence. For centuries, this place bore the scars of raids, conflicts, and devastating storms, which gradually led the complex to fall into decline. Its revival began only in 1982, when the administration of the province of Barcelona launched an extensive restoration, reviving the site’s former splendor that now attracts hikers, pilgrims, and all who appreciate beauty.
Sleeping under the stars and trails into eternity
The complex is literally embedded into the rugged landscape, following the contours of the rocky massif. On clear days, its viewpoints offer sweeping vistas stretching all the way to the famous jagged peaks of Montserrat. Inside the Romanesque church, laid out in the shape of a Latin cross, there is a small Gothic statue of the Virgin Mary, popularly known as “The Winged One,” which is tied to a unique local tradition. The sensation of soaring above the void and the remarkable acoustics make this a must-visit spot. The surrounding trails lead to natural treasures such as La Grevolosa, a beech forest with centuries-old trees, or to the Salt del Mir waterfall, whose 35-meter cascades sparkle amid the forests of the Osona region. For those wishing to stay longer, a simple and functional guesthouse operates within the monastery. Its rooms face directly onto the Pyrenean ridges. From the most austere, almost monastic cells, to a panoramic studio with views on three sides, all of them preserve the serene spirit of this place. Accommodation ranges from €65 for a single room to €210 for a studio, including breakfast. The complex is managed in harmony with nature: it holds a Biosphere certificate and has reduced its CO₂ emissions by 85% thanks to switching its boiler to biomass, made possible with support from the EU Next Generation funds.
The region’s flavors and a path to solitude
A memorable culinary experience awaits at La Prodigiosa restaurant, which serves Mediterranean cuisine made from locally sourced, organic ingredients. The menu features risotto, grilled meats, oven-baked coca flatbreads, and carefully selected cheeses and cold cuts from Osona. In the summer, its terrace offers panoramic views and is considered one of the best spots in the area to watch the sunset. House specialties include Les Braves del Santuari potatoes, homemade croquettes with calçots, cod, or jamón, as well as hummus made from local chickpeas. The most convenient way to get here is from the town of Sant Pere de Torelló, either on foot along the old GR-151 trail or by car. Alternatively, you can take the train to Torelló or Sant Quirze de Besora (R3 line) and continue your journey on foot, by bike, or by taxi. For drivers, free parking is available just a few minutes’ walk from the main building. Surrounded by cliffs and beech groves, this secluded spot remains one of the northeast Iberian Peninsula’s best-preserved secrets.
