The Yellow Train (Train Jaune), which has become a symbol of the region, has been running for over a century through the narrow valleys of the Eastern Pyrenees, linking Villefranche-de-Conflent and La Tour-de-Carol. The 63-kilometer route passes through some of the most picturesque corners of the Franco-Catalan border.
One of the key stops along the route is the fortified town of Mont-Louis, located at an altitude of 1,600 meters. This settlement is considered one of the highest in Europe and is included on the UNESCO World Heritage list. After Mont-Louis, the train heads into the mountains, reaching the small village of Thuès-Entre-Valls at the foot of the Canigou massif. Here, on the natural border between Spain and France, lies the Carança Gorge—a place where nature and history are deeply intertwined.
The trail through the Carança Gorge leads to a mountain refuge at 1,800 meters above sea level. This route was created in 1943 to transport materials and workers during the construction of the tunnel that channels the Carança River’s waters to the Thuès hydroelectric power station. Today, tourists seeking adventure and wishing to test themselves at altitude follow this trail. In winter, the path becomes dangerous due to ice, but in summer, when the snow melts, a rich world of flora and fauna emerges here.
The trail begins at a twenty-meter waterfall, which appears after heavy summer rains. The initial sections of the path run alongside rocky walls looming over the river before splitting into two directions. One route climbs steeply, offering panoramic views of the gorge, after which the trail descends to the river again. Here, travelers encounter suspension bridges and metal walkways, allowing them to cross swift currents and narrow rock corridors.
The forest in this area seems unchanged throughout the year. Dry, rocky paths turn into damp, mossy stretches, while thick vegetation covers the ground with a yellow carpet of fallen leaves. After the first bridge, which requires caution due to its old condition, the trail is lost among the stones, where visitors might spot marmots and small snakes hunting for prey. After 200 meters, the riverbed narrows so much that crossing is only possible one at a time, using metal walkways and suspension bridges. Overcoming these obstacles, hikers reach the final three-hour section leading to the Carança refuge.
At the refuge, located at an altitude of 1,840 meters, visitors can spend the night and sample traditional dishes, including shepherd’s pie. At dawn, the route continues for another five kilometers to the mountain lake Estany de Carança, which lies at 2,264 meters above sea level. The lake is surrounded by the peaks Pic de l’Infern (2,870 m), Pic de la Fossa del Gegant (2,807 m), and Bastiments (2,881 m). According to local legends, the lake possesses mystical properties: some say witches transformed into giant fish dwell in its depths, and throwing a stone into the water can unleash an icy storm. Such stories gave rise to the name of the nearby valley, Coma de l’Infern, which is said to be under the devil’s domain.
Leaving behind the damp valleys and streams, travelers ascend higher, where the landscape becomes harsh and windswept. Here, among the barren slopes, French writer Émile Pouvillon described in his book “La Terre d’Oc” the edge of the valley as a place where all life seems to vanish and the mountains resemble a crumbling skeleton exposed to the elements.
