Paco Ron, a leading innovator of Asturian cuisine, has died. His work transformed the region’s culinary scene. Ron’s legacy includes a Michelin star and the founding of NUCA.
Paco Ron, one of the most influential chefs in Asturias and a pioneer of the region’s modern cuisine, has died. His passing marks the end of an era for Spanish gastronomy, as Ron was instrumental in redefining the culinary landscape of western Asturias. Decades ago, he opened a small tavern in Viavélez, a fishing village with little gastronomic reputation at the time, and turned it into a destination for innovative cooking.
Ron’s career began in some of Spain’s most renowned kitchens, including Aldebarán, Atrio, Arzak, Martín Berasategui, El Celler de Can Roca, and El Cenador de Salvador. These experiences shaped his technical mastery and convinced him that tradition and modernity could coexist on the same plate. When he launched his own project in Viavélez, the region was largely isolated from culinary trends, but Ron’s determination brought a new energy to the area.
His menu quickly stood out for its creativity and technical precision. Dishes like gazpacho with sardines on cucumber jelly, sea urchin with cauliflower cream and shellfish jelly, and oven-roasted bonito with chocolate and pineapple sauce became hallmarks of his approach. In 1999, Ron’s efforts were recognized with a Michelin star—the first ever awarded in western Asturias, and the only one in the area until Elio Fernández earned another for Ferpel in Ortiguera four years ago.
Beyond his own kitchen, Ron played a crucial role in shaping the future of Asturian cuisine. In 1998, he co-founded NUCA (Nueva Cocina Asturiana) alongside Nacho Manzano, Pedro Martino, and José Antonio Campoviejo. This group, together with the work of Pedro Morán, laid the foundation for what is now considered one of Spain’s most important regional cuisines. Despite critical acclaim and the Michelin star, Ron’s Viavélez tavern eventually closed in 2005 due to a lack of local clientele.
He later moved to Madrid, where he opened a new Viavélez restaurant with his sister Sara. For fifteen years, they maintained a focus on Asturian-inspired dishes, earning respect from both diners and colleagues. Health issues eventually forced Ron to step back and transfer the restaurant to his manager. Two years ago, as his illness progressed, the Asturian culinary community honored him with a surprise tribute in Viavélez, attended by many Michelin-starred chefs from the region.
Ron’s influence extended far beyond his own establishments. Many chefs who never visited his original tavern still acknowledge the impact of his work and the respect he commanded among peers. His legacy is evident in the evolution of Asturian cuisine, which has gained national prominence in recent years. The story of Paco Ron’s career stands in contrast to other recent events in Spain’s regions, such as the scrutiny of official responses during the Valencia flood disaster, which highlighted the importance of leadership and innovation in times of crisis, as detailed in this report on the Valencia tragedy.
Asturias, known for its rich culinary traditions, has seen a transformation over the past three decades, with chefs like Ron at the forefront. The NUCA group’s influence continues to shape new generations of cooks, and the region’s restaurants now attract attention from across Spain and beyond. Ron’s passing is a significant loss, but his contributions remain a cornerstone of Asturian and Spanish gastronomy.
