In the heart of the Liébana region in Cantabria lies a true natural treasure known as El Abario. This hidden gem attracts travelers tired of conventional routes, eager to discover authentic landscapes. Here, amid centuries-old silence, stretches a chestnut forest whose ancient, gnarled trees seem crafted not by nature, but by the hands of a master sculptor.
A walk through this forest begins with suspense. At first, the trails wind through ordinary greenery, but suddenly a clearing appears, scattered with colossal chestnut trees. Their trunks, twisted by time and winds, form fantastic shapes that spark the imagination, conjuring up mythical creatures. It is in that moment you understand why the Castañera de Pendes, as this place is also called, is considered one of the most breathtaking landscapes in the north of the Iberian Peninsula. Each specimen here is a living monument—a silent witness to the centuries-old history of this land.
Mountain legends and the breath of history
The grove is located between the villages of Pendés and Cabañes, within the Siliórigo de Liébana municipality. This area is protected by two nature reserves, preserving its pristine landscape. The origins of El Abario are closely tied to the traditional way of life of local residents. For centuries, the chestnut tree was everything to them: a source of food, valuable timber for building, and dense shade during hot summer days. Today, this legacy endures in harmony with the modern world, where pastures and ancient forest trails attract hiking enthusiasts.
Situated at an altitude of 536 meters, the grove offers breathtaking views of the Eastern Massif of Picos de Europa. The only sounds breaking the silence are the rustling leaves and the melodious chime of grazing livestock bells. From the specially equipped Mirador del Corral de los Moros, located on the site of an ancient defensive structure, you can take in views of more than two hundred monumental trees. Amidst the dense vegetation, remnants of ancient settlements can still be seen, adding an air of mystery to the place.
A fairytale journey: trails and gastronomy
To fully immerse yourself in the atmosphere of this place, follow the trail that begins in the small village of Pendes. The route will take you through a humid forest draped in moss and ferns. It’s perfect for family walks and connects several scenic viewpoints: in autumn, you can admire a kaleidoscope of colors, and in winter—snow-capped peaks. For visitors’ convenience, there is a rest area equipped with tables, swings, and a source of fresh water.
After an active walk, there’s nothing better than recharging in one of the local eateries. Be sure to try the traditional cocido lebaniego or the famous artisanal cheeses ‘quesucos,’ all made by hand. This is the perfect way to end your day and deepen your appreciation for the culture and flavors of Cantabria.
Getting to El Abarrio is easy. From Santander, take the N-621 towards the Hermida Gorge, then turn onto the local roads leading to Pendes. Travelers from Bilbao should first take the A-8 highway, then switch to the N-621. The final stretch winds along narrow mountain roads, but every turn rewards you with unforgettable views that will stay with you long after your journey.
