In the very heart of Catalonia, nestled among hills and fields, lies a village that can astonish even the most seasoned traveler. Ullastret is more than just a point on the map—it’s a true portal into the depths of European history. Here, amid the silence and ancient stones, you can quite literally touch the eras when human life first began to emerge on these lands.
Archaeologists say the first people appeared in the Ullastret area as far back as the late Paleolithic period, more than 20,000 years ago. Back then, small groups of hunters and gatherers were drawn here by abundant water and game. Their camps, hearths, and primitive tools are still found in layers of earth, silent witnesses to worlds long vanished.
Traces of the ancient past
But Ullastret’s true claim to fame came during the Iron Age, when Iberian tribes settled here. A mighty fortress rose atop Puig de Sant Andreu, surrounded by walls and towers. This was much more than a military outpost—it was a genuine city, with artisan quarters, warehouses, streets, and even its own water supply system. At its peak, up to six thousand people lived here—by the standards of that era, nearly a metropolis.
It was in Ullastret that archaeologists discovered unique artifacts: skulls with iron nails driven into them, mysterious vessels, jewelry, and weapons. All of this speaks to the complex and sometimes brutal life of the ancient inhabitants of this area. The city flourished until the Romans arrived. With their appearance, Iberian civilization began to fade, and the fortress gradually emptied. Yet life here never truly ceased.
Medieval image
In the Middle Ages, a new Ullastret arose on the ruins of the ancient city. Narrow streets, stone houses, massive walls, and the Romanesque church of Sant Pere — all this has survived almost unchanged to the present day. Walking these streets, it’s easy to imagine how vibrant life once was: merchants, artisans, farmers, and warriors all contributed to the spirit of a true medieval settlement.
Today, Ullastret is home to just 250 inhabitants, but every house, every stone here preserves the memory of times past. Locals take pride in their heritage and carefully maintain their traditions. The village has a unique atmosphere: there is no hurry here, and time seems to flow more slowly.
Archaeology and nature
Ullastret’s main treasure is the archaeological complex Puig de Sant Andreu. This is the largest Iberian settlement in Catalonia, and excavations are still ongoing. Visitors can see the remains of fortress walls, the foundations of ancient homes, old workshops, and even a museum exhibiting the most valuable finds. The famous ‘skulls with nails’ are especially striking — a mystery that continues to puzzle scientists around the world.
But it’s not just ancient history that draws visitors here. The surroundings of Ullastret offer picturesque hills, forests, and fields, ideal for hiking and cycling. Nature has been preserved here in nearly pristine condition, and the air is filled with the scent of herbs and freshness. Food lovers won’t be disappointed either: local restaurants serve dishes made with fresh vegetables, legumes, sausages, and fish caught on the coast.
Modern life
Despite its modest size, Ullastret doesn’t feel forgotten or outdated. Its proximity to Girona and convenient transportation links make it attractive for those tired of city life but not ready for complete isolation. Here, you’ll find cozy houses, well-tended gardens, and friendly neighbors. Life moves at a calm, unhurried pace, but it’s never dull: festivals, fairs, excursions, and master classes in ancient crafts attract guests from all over Catalonia.
There’s no room for rush in Ullastret. People here value simple pleasures: walking through the fields, chatting on a bench, fresh bread in the morning, and the only sound breaking the silence is birdsong. This is a place for those seeking harmony with nature and history, not the noise and entertainment of a metropolis.
If you didn’t know, Ullastret is not just an archaeological site but a vibrant community where past and present intertwine in remarkable ways. The village is one of Girona’s main tourist gems, attracting thousands of visitors each year eager to explore the roots of Catalonia. Festivals, exhibitions, and educational programs for both children and adults are held here regularly. Ullastret is a place where history doesn’t gather dust in books—it lives on at every turn.
