Santiago de Compostela attracts hundreds of thousands of pilgrims every year, all drawn to its magnificent cathedral. Yet, away from the well-trodden paths, nestled in a quiet bend by the Sar River, stands a building whose history and appearance can astonish even the most seasoned traveler. This is the Colegiata de Santa María la Real de Sar, a church that quite literally defies the laws of physics. Its interior creates an almost surreal impression: the stone vaults and pillars are visibly, even dramatically, tilted, as if frozen at the brink of collapse. This is not an optical illusion, but the result of centuries-long conflict between architecture and nature.
The foundation of this remarkable church dates back to the 12th century. The initiative for its construction came from Munio Alfonso, a close associate of the influential Archbishop Diego Gelmírez, a key figure in the city’s history. Originally, the site was settled by a community of Augustinians, and over the following centuries, the monastery played a significant role in the spiritual life of the region. However, the choice of location for such a monumental structure proved fateful. The marshy, unstable soil by the riverbank could not withstand the weight of the massive stone building. Over time, the foundation began to settle, leading to the gradual and alarming tilt of the supporting structures.
Architects of later periods did everything possible to save the building from total destruction. Massive buttresses were constructed to reinforce the walls, and to this day, they support the Romanesque walls from the outside, creating a distinctive and memorable silhouette. After a period of decline, the monastery experienced a revival in the 18th century. During the Baroque era, extensive renovations transformed both the church’s interior and the cloister—the inner courtyard. This blend of austere Romanesque style with ornate Baroque decor gives the place a unique charm, allowing visitors to trace its complex history, etched in stone.
Beyond its architectural drama, the site is steeped in legend. One of the most famous tales connected to the Way of Saint James tells of a pagan ruler who, after converting to Christianity, donated her palace to found the monastery. According to popular lore, she became its first abbess. This story adds a mystical aura to the already enigmatic atmosphere of the church, where every stone seems ready to reveal its own story.
In 1895, the historical and cultural value of the building was officially recognized—it became the first site in Galicia to be awarded the status of National Monument. Today, it serves not only as an active church, but also as an important cultural center. The complex houses the MuSar museum, where artifacts discovered during restoration work are displayed. Visitors can see fragments of the original Romanesque cloister, Gothic sculptures, and elements of Baroque décor. Visiting this complex offers a glimpse into the lesser-known history of Santiago and allows one to experience the authentic medieval spirit preserved in its crooked walls.
