When the bustle of the metropolis becomes overwhelming and you long for peace and vibrant colors, many Madrid residents head out of the city. In autumn, this urge becomes especially strong. Just over an hour’s drive from the capital, in the province of Ávila, lies a natural haven that looks as if it came straight out of a fairy tale. This is the Valle de Iruelas Nature Reserve, home to a true treasure—a thousand-year-old chestnut forest known as Castañar de El Tiemblo.
Every year, as the weather cools, this forest transforms beyond recognition. Its slopes are blanketed in a dense carpet of orange, gold, and crimson leaves. Walking along the trails is a full immersion into a different reality, where the air is thick with the scent of damp earth and fallen leaves. Towering chestnuts, ancient oaks, and ferns create an almost mystical atmosphere. Chestnuts are scattered beneath your feet, but the park administration strongly requests visitors not to pick them. Although of little nutritional value to humans, these nuts are a key food source for local wildlife. Wild boars, squirrels, and forest mice eagerly feast on them, making chestnuts a vital resource for survival.
“The Grandfather”: the keeper of the forest’s secrets
The undisputed centerpiece and heart of this forest is the monumental chestnut tree, affectionately named “El Abuelo”—which means “Grandfather” by the locals. This giant is more than five hundred years old. Its massive trunk, measuring 16 meters in circumference, and a sprawling 19-meter-tall canopy are truly awe-inspiring. The trunk is hollow inside—a living testament to its long and challenging life, marked by battles with the elements and time. “Grandfather” has become not only a symbol of the forest but also one of the most photographed trees in the entire Castilla y León region. It embodies the resilience of nature and the unbreakable bond between generations.
A Walk Along the Trail of Giants
To fully appreciate the beauty of this place and see its main attraction, visitors are encouraged to follow a specially marked route. ‘Sendero de El Castañar’ is a circular trail just over four kilometers long. It starts at the El Rejago recreation area and is perfect for a leisurely family stroll—including pets. The route is easy and lets you explore the most scenic corners of the grove, gradually leading hikers to a memorable encounter with the legendary “Grandfather.”
How to Preserve Fragile Beauty
The popularity of this natural enclave had been growing year after year, which inevitably affected its ecosystem. The constant stream of tourists sparked serious concerns over preserving its unique landscape. Excessive human impact, especially soil trampling, began to threaten the fertile ground and the root systems of the trees. As a result, the authorities were forced to introduce restrictions. During the autumn season, at the height of visitor numbers, access to the forest on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays became regulated. Now, visits on those days require booking a ticket online in advance. On weekdays, from Monday to Thursday, entry remains free. You can access the area on foot, by private car, or on a special municipal bus, with ticket prices varying depending on the mode of transport. These measures are aimed at protecting the delicate balance of the ecosystem and ensuring that future generations can also experience this incredible beauty.
Despite the restrictions introduced, Castañar de El Tiemblo has not lost its charm. This forest in the mountains of Ávila remains one of the most stunning autumn destinations in Spain. Its rich colors, resonant silence, and the grandeur of the ancient Chestnut Patriarch create the perfect environment to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and reconnect with nature. Standing beneath the centuries-old canopy is a chance to touch history and beauty, and to realize the importance of preserving one of the most precious green havens of Castilla y León.
