This autumn, Cantabria launched an unusual route inviting travelers to follow in the footsteps of the hero from the renowned novel “Peñas arriba” by José María de Pereda. The journey covers 22 kilometers through picturesque corners of the region, where the spirit of a bygone era still lingers and the authenticity of rural life endures.
The route starts in the city of Reinosa, which gained city status nearly a century ago. Here, among ancient streets and the baroque San Sebastián church, it’s easy to imagine the novel’s protagonist leaving the capital for the first time and entering a world where nature becomes a symbol of purity and real life. The city seems to preserve the sense of realism so prized by Pereda.
The next stop is Fontibre, where the Ebro River begins. Surrounded by centuries-old trees, this spot seems to unite the land, water, and a person’s inner world. From here, you can take a short detour to Argüeso Castle—a medieval fortress once owned by the Mendoza family. The view from its walls will captivate any traveler.
The journey then passes through the villages of Espinilla and Proaño. Here, historic houses and old traditions are preserved—just as they once inspired the writer. In Proaño stands the Torre del Sordo, a tower now converted into a museum displaying 19th-century household items, reminding visitors of days gone by. Each stop along the way invites you to imagine how the novel’s hero discovered the rugged beauty of these lands.
The final stop is Brañavieja, home to the Alto Campoo ski resort. From here, you get panoramic views of a valley where meadows and mountains seem frozen in time. For the especially curious, there’s the option to continue up to the Palombera Pass, which leads to Tudanca — the place where, according to the author, the protagonist’s inner transformation reaches its conclusion.
A Literary Journey: History, Nature, and Tradition
This route is more than just a stroll through beautiful landscapes. It fuses past and present, offering a glimpse of Cantabria through the eyes of both the protagonist and the author. The journey is accessible to everyone: you can do it on foot, by bike, or by car. The entire route is suitable for a moderate level of fitness, with dedicated paths for walkers and cyclists, plus marked detours to historical sites along the way.
On average, the entire route takes about two hours by car, four hours by bike, or seven hours on foot with stops. It’s more than a guided tour—it’s a chance to experience how nature and tradition shape a person’s character and worldview, just as described in the novel more than a century ago.
About the Novel and Its Author
“Peñas Arriba” tells the story of a young lawyer from Madrid who travels to a mountain village in Cantabria to visit his uncle. Far from the hustle and bustle of the city, he rediscovers simple pleasures, local traditions, and a sense of harmony with nature. José María de Pereda, a native of Cantabria, is considered one of the leading figures of Spanish realism and a master at depicting rural life and the region’s coastal landscapes.
Tracing the route inspired by his novel is an opportunity not only to explore literary heritage, but also to see Cantabria through the eyes of classic characters. For many, this journey is a true revelation, as every step is an encounter with the history, culture, and natural beauty that continue to shape the region.
Practical information for travelers
The total length of the route is 22 kilometers round trip. The trail is of moderate difficulty and suitable for hiking, cycling, and car tours. Along the way, you’ll find both historic and natural attractions: Reinosa, the source of the Ebro, Argüeso Castle, Espinilla, Proaño, and Brañavieja. Depending on your pace and the number of sightseeing stops, travel time may vary.
