In northern Spain, far from the usual tourist routes, true hidden gems await. One such place is Orinón, a tiny fishing village in Cantabria, nestled between the majestic Serredo and Candina cliffs. This is a corner where time seems to slow down, preserving the original tranquility and charm of coastal settlements. Only about 150 people live here year-round, but in the summer, the population soars as vacationers arrive, drawn by the local campsite and one of the region’s most unusual beaches.
The main attraction of Orinón is its sandy shoreline, which seems to have a life of its own, constantly reshaped by the tides. At low tide, the water retreats so far that it reveals a vast area, allowing you to walk all the way to the neighboring Arenillas beach in Islares. This route winds through scenic dunes and lush Atlantic vegetation, creating a feeling of complete harmony with nature. The ecosystem formed by the merging of the beach, marshes, and the mouth of the Agüera river is astonishingly rich, even for those familiar with the Cantabrian coastline. As the river flows into the ocean, it forms an estuary of immense ecological value, with unique salt-tolerant flora and wet meadows.
Not far from the village, in the Sonabia area, a trail begins at the Virgen del Refugio chapel that leads to Cape Cebolllero. Locals and tourists know this spot by another name—the ‘Orinón Whale’. The massive rock emerging from the water is strikingly shaped like a marine giant. This geological phenomenon has become an unofficial symbol of the municipality, and its image took on special significance after a real whale washed up on this very beach in 1997. At sunset, the interplay of light and shadow on the rocky giant’s rugged surface creates an unforgettable spectacle.
Towering over this entire landscape is Mount Candina, rising almost 500 meters high. Its slopes are home to the largest colony of griffon vultures along the Cantabrian coast. This is a unique sight for Europe: birds of prey nesting so close to the sea. Numerous trails wind up the limestone cliffs, offering travelers breathtaking views of the coast, from Castro-Urdiales to Liendo. At the summit, you’ll find the Llanegro natural arches, better known as the ‘Devil’s Eyes’. These serve as natural viewpoints, with stunning vistas over the cape, the beach, and the endless sea. The route to the arches starts on the outskirts of Orinón or from Sonabia, following old mining roads where traces of iron ore and abandoned tunnels can still be seen.
After a long walk, nothing beats recharging with a taste of local cuisine. The Oriñón area is dotted with restaurants serving the freshest fish from the Cantabrian Sea, squid (rabas), shellfish in marinera sauce, or tuna casseroles. Be sure to try grilled meats and cheeses made in the Guriezo valley as well. Getting to the village is easy via the A-8 highway, which connects Bilbao and Santander. Just take the Guriezo–Oriñón exit. The trip from the Cantabrian capital takes about 40 minutes, while from Bilbao it’s just over half an hour.
